There are two main types of reel for sea fishing: the Fixed Spool and the Multiplier. The fixed spool reel, as the name suggests, has a spool that does not move. Instead, when the handle is turned, a ‘bail-arm’ rotates around the spool laying the line onto the spool as it goes. Imagine holding an empty cotton reel in one hand and using the other hand to wind cotton onto it. The cotton reel itself does not rotate. This is exactly how a fixed spool reel works. A multiplier works the other way around. Instead of the winder moving around the spool, the spool itself rotates. This mechanism is a lot simpler and can yield great casting distances but it does have it’s disadvantages.

Most beginners to sea fishing choose to use a fixed spool reel. They tend to be cheaper to buy and easier to learn. When casting a rig into the sea, the line is simply pulled off the spool and there is little danger of a tangle. Not so with the multiplier! When casting with a multiplier reel, the spool rotates at the speed required to serve the line but once the rig lands in the sea and the demand for line reduces, the spool will keep on spinning. Without intervention from the angler at this stage an overrun will occur resulting in a huge tangled mess known in fishing circles as a ‘birds nest’. Modern multiplier reels have advanced braking systems that attempt to slow the spool down automatically to avoid overruns but even the most complex of these still rely on the skill of the angler. There is of course a trade-off between the amount of braking applied and the achievable casting distance. To safeguard against overruns, the angler could apply maximum braking but with maximum braking applied the amount of line that is served will be limited and this will in turn limit the distance of the cast.

So why use a multiplier at all? The short answer is that multiplier reels, once mastered, are more efficient casting machines and the distances achievable by an experienced angler with a good multiplier reel are far better than with a fixed spool reel. The key factors when using a multiplier are smoothness of cast and efficiency of braking. A smooth cast and efficient braking ensures that maximum distance is achieved with minimal risk of a birds nest. Any snatches in the cast will directly influence the speed of rotation of the spool and this is one of the main causes of overruns.

Both types of reel have a requirement for the line to be laid evenly on the spool. With a fixed spool reel this is achieved by a mechanism which causes the spool to move up and down as the handle is turned. All fixed spool reels have this feature as they would not be able to operate correctly without it. Some multiplier reels have a ‘level wind’ feature and this is recommended for beginners but many experienced anglers prefer to work without it as it can hinder the line slightly during the cast and when distance is key, every little thing helps. In this case the angler is required to manually move the line evenly across the spool as the line is reeled in.

In summary, if you’ve never fished before then you will ideally need to learn how to cast smoothly before you attempt to use a multiplier. Though it’s not impossible to learn with a multiplier reel from scratch, the learning curve will certainly be steeper since you’ll have tangles to contend with caused by jerky or irregular casting. Fixed spool reels are a lot more forgiving while you are perfecting your casting technique and will allow you to concentrate on the action of your cast without having to worry about overruns or braking. The last thing you want is to be put off fishing for life because you’re spending most of your time sitting on the beach trying to free your multiplier from a horrendous mess of line when those around you are catching fish! The best advice for beginners is to start with a reasonably priced fixed spool reel, learn to cast smoothly, and then progress to a multiplier if you want to. This way, you get the benefit of using both types of reel without losing your enthusiasm for fishing and without losing money and time on lost tackle.

Dave Dominy

We’ve had a few enquiries recently about the best hook size to use when fishing for cod. When I’m cod fishing from the beach I prefer to use a size 3/0 hook. Cod have incredibly large mouths and are capable of eating very large baits. Don’t worry about presenting too large a bait, being scavengers cod will engulf anything from medium size fish like whiting to whole crabs without any trouble. Infact the larger your bait the better chance you have of a cod finding your hook, as the scent trail will be a lot stronger.

Larger hook sizes, like a size 5/0 or even 6/0, can be used, however these are usually reserved for extremely large baits which are difficult to cast from the beach and probably better suited to fishing from a boat. If you stick to either a size 3/0 or even 2/0 baited hook, you’ll be able to present a good sized bait which can be easily cast, bettering your chances of finding a cod. At the other end of the scale, smaller hooks can be used, but with caution. Cod are a very strong fish. A smaller hook size just might not be strong enough to hold the fish once hooked. If you’re targeting a specific fish like cod, its best to use the appropriate tackle.

Dave Dominy

From late September through to early March our UK coastline becomes a haven for the beach fisherman with sights heavily set on bagging this highly prized catch. From the shore, the British record for a rod and line caught specimen weighs a whopping 44lbs and 8oz while in deeper waters only accessible while afloat these magnificent fish reach weights in excess of 100lbs! Rod and line caught specimens however very rarely tip the scales over 15lbs and anyone who bags a cod over this weight should count themselves extremely lucky.

Cod can be easily identified by their green and grey mottled flanks, large white belly, huge head and distinct barbell on their chin. It is important to point out that the colouration of this fish may vary depending on its natural surroundings and it is not uncommon to find cod being caught from kelp and rocky ground with a brown or even red appearance.

Cod can be caught all year round from a boat as this gives the angler easy access to deep water. From the shore however, the venue that you fish will greatly influence the cods feeding habits, how you fish and how far you will need to cast. The most well known cod marks from the shore are typically steep shingle beaches holding deep water at high tide, possibly the most famous being Dungeness and Chesil beach. Cod prefer to live in deep water unlike Bass which will come into less than a foot of water in search of food. Cod prefer to stay protected by the deep and will in most cases only venture into shallow water under the cover of night or in rough weather. Before fishing any venue gather as much local fishing knowledge as possible and visit the venue at low tide to establish what sort of ground you will be fishing. Look out for gullies and sandbanks and any areas which might hold more food and be a natural feeding ground. Being able to read a potential fishing ground is equally as important as being able to place a bait at long range. Cod can be caught at long distance over 200 yards as well as close in around the 50-60 yard mark. I wonder how many anglers have cast straight over the top of feeding fish!

Being a bottom dwelling fish, a cod’s diet is extremely vast, eating pretty much anything from crustaceans and worms to other fish. From the shore, large worm baits and peeler crab baits are extremely desirable, both these baits hold a large amount of juices presenting the cod with a scent trail that’s irresistible. Other top baits include Squid (a firm favourite amongst boat anglers), Mackerel strip, Sand Eel, shrimps, prawns and various shellfish which can be found along the shore at low tide.

It’s well worth trying a bait cocktail. This is two baits presented on a single hook. ‘Worms tipped with squid’ is a classic favourite and in many cases will out fish a single bait. Be as adventurous as you like!

When choosing which rig to use for cod fishing a favourite of mine is the Pulley Rig. This rig is ideal for targeting large cod especially at venues where you may encounter a few rocks and the odd snag. The Pulley system lifts the sinker from the sea bed under the weight of the hooked fish eliminating the potential for getting snagged. The venue that you are fishing will also influence which rig you use. Very rocky ground with a large amount of snags may require the use of a Rotten Bottom link. If you need to place a bait at long distance, a ‘Long Range Clipped Down Rig’ might be used and if the fish are feeding close to the shore line a simple running ledger might be the better option.

The following ready made rigs and components are available from AB Fishing Tackle:

• Pulley Pennel Rig by Anyfish Anywhere.
• Long Range Clipped Down Rig by Mustad.
• Rotten Bottom Link by Anyfish Anywhere.

Lastly, I would like to touch on cod fishing and the importance of conservation. Over the last 10 years cod stocks have plummeted, largely caused by over fishing. Restrictions are now in place and apply to commercial fishermen and recreational fisherman alike. The UK Government (via DEFRA) have laid down ‘Minimum Landing Sizes’ (MLS) to help preserve our fish stocks, while the Angling Trust also provide ‘Recommended Retention Size Limits’ (RRSL) for the majority of fish likely to be caught in UK waters. An RRSL is a suggested size for a fish which should be returned to the sea. The recommended retention size limit for any rod and line caught cod is 35cm from the tip of the snout to the end of the tail. Anything smaller than this should be carefully removed from the hook and released back into the sea.

With conservation in mind it is very pleasing to see many anglers taking responsibility for future fish stocks by adopting a catch and release attitude regardless of whether their catch is over the RRSL.

Whether you fish from the shore or from a boat, if you follow a few simple guidelines, there’s no reason why you too shouldn’t enjoy the rewards of winter cod fishing.

Tight Lines!

Dave Dominy

Getting into sea fishing can be a little daunting. Unfortunately many tackle shops in the UK appear to be reluctant to share knowledge and walking into a tackle shop knowing nothing about sea fishing can be intimidating for the beginner. What rod and reel should I buy, what do I use for bait, where does my weight go and how do I cast out? Fundamental questions that all sea fishermen know the answers to but many beginners are afraid to ask.
If this sounds familiar, read on!

What to Buy

The simplest way to catch fish from the beach is to cast a baited rig into the sea and wait for a fish to bite. For this you will need the following basic equipment as a minimum:

• Beach Caster Rod
• Fixed Spool Reel
• Main line
• Shock Leader line
• Ready Made Rig
• Lead Weight
• Bait
• Rod Rest

Beach Caster Rod

Beach caster rods (sometimes called surf or surf-casting rods) are usually 12 or 13 feet long and start at around £25 for a reasonable quality budget rod. If you’re able to stretch to an intermediate level rod for around £50 then by all means do but be careful not to buy a rod that is too stiff for you as until you have improved your casting technique you won’t be able to apply enough power to the cast to bend the rod and you may as well cast out with a broom handle! The cheaper rods are usually made from fibreglass and tend to be heavier and thicker than the next level up where carbon construction allows a slimmer rod without compromising strength and flexibility. Having said that, there are now many very reasonably priced carbon rods available.

Fixed Spool Reel

There are two main types of reel for sea fishing: Fixed Spool and Multiplier. As a beginner a fixed spool reel is usually the best option. Simplicity is key when you are starting out and although multiplier reels can yield better results in distance casting they are also far more prone to catastrophic tangles otherwise known as ‘birds-nests’. Fixed spool reels are less susceptible to tangles and are very simple to use.

Main Line

Line is rated by its breaking strain. A line of 20lbs for example will break when the force applied to it exceeds 20lbs. There are two main types of line: Mono-filament (mono) and Braid. Mono, as the name suggests, is single stranded whereas braid is made from many individual fibres allowing the same breaking strain to be achieved using much thinner line. Again for simplicity stick with mono line to begin with. Many anglers are now switching to braid but it’s a lot more expensive and not generally recommended for beginners. The breaking strain should be high enough to cope with the forces experienced when hooking into a big fish but not too high or the line will be too thick to achieve the required casting distance. The type of ground (sea bed) that you’re fishing on can be an important factor here and a higher breaking strain should be used over rough ground where snags and abrasion are more likely. A breaking strain of 18 or 20lb would be a good choice to begin with. Fill your reel almost to capacity using the main line, leaving a lip of about 2 to 3mm on the spool. A bigger lip will result in a less efficient cast but be careful not to overfill it or you line will fall off the spool into a tangle before you know it.

Shock Leader

A shock leader is a length of very strong line that takes the brunt of the force applied to the line when casting. If you try to cast out without a shock leader, you will more than likely snap your main line as it’s very easy to apply more than 20lb of force during a cast. The shock leader attaches to your main line and runs a few times around the spool, up through the eyes of the rod and about another 3 or 4 feet down to your rig. As a general rule of thumb, you should take the weight of your lead in ounces and multiply this by 10 to give you the breaking strain of your shock leader in pounds. So for example if you are fishing with a 5oz lead, you should use at least a 50lb shock leader.

IMPORTANT: For safety reasons, always use a shock leader of sufficient breaking strain. If your line snaps when casting your lead and tackle can fly off in any direction and cause injury.

Ready Made Rig

The rig (sometimes called a trace) is an arrangement of hooks tied in a particular configuration. Once you get more into your sea fishing you may want to tie your own rigs but to begin with it’s much easier to buy one ready made. You can then use this as a template to make your own rigs in the future. There are many different ready made rigs available for around 2 to 3 pounds. A good choice for the beginner would be a three hook flapper rig. This is a very basic rig with three hooks tied in a simple arrangement. Each hook can be baited with a different bait to give good scent dispersion and to provide more chance of catching a fish. The rig will attach to your shock leader preferably using a trace-link to allow quick release when changing your rig or packing away.

Lead Weight

The lead weight (normally just called a lead) has 2 purposes. Firstly it provides weight allowing you to cast your baited rig a long way and secondly it keeps your baited rig anchored to the sea bed instead of floating off aimlessly and tangling up with the person fishing next to you. Because currents can be strong in the sea, it’s best to use a lead that has grip wires (or prongs) that dig into the ground. Some of these are simply made from pliable wire that springs loose when pulled and some have stronger wires that clip into the body of the weight and release when pulled firmly. Gemini Breakout Leads or Break-Away Impact Leads are both excellent choices. The lead will attach to the bottom of your rig ideally using a lead-link or lead-clip to allow quick release when changing your rig or packing away. For sea fishing in UK waters, a 5 or 6oz lead should be sufficient however it will depend on how rough the sea or how strong the current is.

Bait

There are many different types of bait that can be used for sea fishing. Lug-worm, mackerel and squid are popular choices. It’s a good idea to have more than one bait to give yourself more chance of catching the fish. If using a multi-hook rig (a three-hook flapper rig for example) it’s also a good idea to use a different bait on each hook. This is great for scent dispersion and allows you to judge which bait is giving you the best results. Be sure to secure your bait by threading the hook through it several times or it may get dislodged during the cast.

Rod Rest

The rod rest is a simple stand that holds your rod at the right angle while you are fishing. It’s not absolutely essential but highly recommended as without one you’ll need to hold your rod in your hands and this will very soon become uncomfortable. It’s also a lot easier to have your rod upright when attaching tackle and baiting up or removing fish from your line.

Sea Fishing Starter Kits

If you’re looking for an inexpensive way to purchase the above you may wish to buy a Sea Fishing Starter Kit. This generally works out cheaper and ensures that everything you buy will work together.

How To Fish

Now that you have all of your tackle and equipment, you need to know how to use it. In simple terms here’s what to do:

1. Put your rod together and ensure that the eyes line up in a straight line.
2. Attach your reel to the rod.
3. Fill your reel with line. Tie a simple loop around the spool of the reel to hold it in place and then gently wind it on until the line has tightened. Continue to wind the line until the reel has been filled. Be sure to draw the line off the top of the supply spool (where the breaking strain is indicated) and not the side or the bottom. The supply spool should not rotate. If you draw the line off the side or the bottom of the supply spool the line will twist and this will cause tangles.
4. Tie the shock leader onto the main line using a shock leader knot or a blood knot. The shock leader should be long enough to wind around the spool of your reel four or five times, pass up the length of the rod and drop down by a further 3 or 4 feet where your rig will be attached.
5. Tie a small loop in the end of the shock leader and attach a trace-link to this loop. Then attach your ready made rig to the trace-link. Be careful to avoid snagging yourself on the hooks!
6. Add a lead-link to the loop at the other end of the rig (if it doesn’t have one already) and then clip your lead in to the rig.
7. Bait up each of the hooks.
8. Cast out gently but firmly using a simple overhead cast to avoid any sudden snatches which could snap your line. To do this you need to hold the line under your thumb and pull back the bail-arm of the reel. Once you have cast out flick the bail-arm back into place and reel in the slack. For more guidance on casting it’s a good idea to observe other fishermen and perhaps ask someone to show you how.
9. Finally, place your rod onto the rod rest and watch the tip for a bite! If you don’t have any bites within half an hour or so, reel in, change your bait and repeat.

Have fun!

Sea fishing is a fun hobby that is simple to learn and very rewarding. Don’t be put off if you don’t catch anything first time. It’s a game of patience and sooner or later you will succeed!

Dave Dominy

Kayaks were originally built by the Inuit people over 4000 years ago for fishing and hunting on inland and coastal waters and the word ‘kayak’ literally means ‘hunters boat’. Traditionally, these would have been built using a skin-on-frame construction which comprises of a wooden framework with a stitched-on watertight skin. Due to vast improvements in materials technology and manufacturing capabilities most recreational kayaks are now made from plastic or composite materials such as fibreglass or carbon-fibre.

There are 2 main types of kayak: ‘Sit Inside’ (SINK) and ‘Sit On Top’ (SOT). With a sit-inside kayak, the paddler sits in the cockpit with his or her legs under the deck. With a sit-on-top kayak, the hull is sealed and the paddler literally sits on top. SOT kayaks are often described as being unsinkable since unless the hull is breached there is no way for water to get inside. For sea fishing, these sealed hull SOT kayaks are by far the most popular as they allow the paddler to enter and exit the water more easily, are generally wider and more stable and require less training than a traditional sit-inside kayak. SOT kayaks can be more easily rigged for fishing and are often sold pre-rigged (with rod holders etc..) for this purpose.

A word on safety. Be sure to receive proper training before taking to the water on your kayak. A local club will be able to help you. Never enter the water without taking the necessary precautions including checking local weather and sea conditions and always ensure that you have told someone where you are going and when you are expected to return. You should also consider informing the coastguard of your plans prior to entering the water and of course upon your return.

When choosing a kayak you will ideally need to visit a dealer where you can try a few different models and use their expertise in selecting a kayak that is best suited to your size and ability. You should expect to pay around £300 to £600 for a brand new entry-level SOT Kayak. Kayak lengths range from about 8 to 16 feet. A shorter kayak will be more easily manoeuvrable but a longer kayak will be faster, more stable and less susceptible to fish-tailing (where the kayak weaves from side to side) when paddling at speed. In addition to your kayak you will need a paddle, a seat, suitable clothing and some basic safety equipment. Again your dealer will be able to advise what’s best here and many dealers will offer a competitively priced package deal containing all of the basic essentials.

As far as tackle is concerned, the best advice for beginners is to start simple. You can use either a baited hook or a lure to catch fish and the method of fishing is different depending on which you choose. When fishing with a baited hook, you will generally drop your hook over the side, allow it to sink to the bottom and wait for a fish to bite. This is a very tranquil way to fish and requires a lot of patience. For this type of fishing you will need the following:

• A kayak rod or a short, lightweight boat fishing rod
• A suitable boat reel with line
• A rig or trace (this is a length of line that includes a hook or arrangement of hooks)
• A weight
• Some bait (mackerel, squid, lugworm etc)

Fishing with a lure is somewhat more dynamic as the fisherman is now required to keep the lure moving in a realistic fashion to fool the fish into thinking that it is a real food source. One very popular method of fishing that works very well from a kayak is ‘jigging’ with a soft lure. The term ‘jigging’ simply describes the action of jerking a lure up and down in the water to try to mimic the natural behaviour of a live fish. To jig with a soft lure you will need the following:

• A kayak rod or a short, lightweight boat fishing rod
• A suitable boat reel with line
• A jig-head (this is a specially shaped weighted hook designed for use with a soft lure)
• Some fluorocarbon line (any mono line will do but fluorocarbon is virtually invisible under water)
• A soft plastic lure

Tie a 4 foot length of fluorocarbon line to your main line and then tie your jig head to the end of this. This will provide you with a virtually invisible, abrasion resistant leader that will help to avoid scaring the fish.

At AB Fishing Tackle, we now offer complete Kayak Fishing Kits containing everything you need in one simple purchase. Our Kayak Kits are put together to give the beginner to kayak fishing a simple, cost effective way to get started.

If you’re thinking about having a go at kayak fishing don’t be afraid to ask questions on one of the many forums. Most people that use forums are willing to share their knowledge. In return, be sure to post your own experiences of kayak fishing and help other people with advice when you can. Always be mindful of safety and above all HAVE FUN!

Dave Dominy